Sunday 25 October 2015

School daze

It may surprise people that I am not just in India for a holiday, I am in fact working at a school. I thought it was probably about time too mention some of the day to day entertainment, as well as all my weekend fun!

Literacy India is an NGO, and runs a variety of community projects as well as a school for children who have migrated into the local area and struggle to get a place in a government school, and can't afford a private education. They are clearly making a big difference to a lot of people but the day to day, like all things in India is pretty mad.

Tom and I are on a teaching assistants program, however the week we arrived students were preparing for exams, and the following 2 weeks they were sitting the exams. This means so far we have had little classroom time other than brief introductions to most of the classes followed by 20 minutes shaking hands with each member of the class and telling each child we're from the UK, but not from London!!

Break times are spent taking photo's and talking to the children, whilst drinking spiced ultra sweet cups of tea, or again being bombarded by the same three questions..."Good morning ma'am how are you?" "Ma'am what is your name?" "Sarah ma'am where are you from?" Before they run off not really interested in the responses.




Some of the children we get to speak to in more detail. In order to raise more funding the organisation creates detailed profiles of students to share with many of their contributors. In helping to write some of these we went on a home visit to meet the mother of one of our students, and gain a beer understanding of what life is really like for some of the children when they return from a day at school.

The young man we went to visit is 12 years old and lives about 10 minutes drive from school, he cycles to and from each day. We ring him from the local shops as his house isn't easy to find and he comes to meet us and guide us through the maze of little streets. We arrive at his house and are welcomed by his mother wearing a bright pink and green sari. His two younger sisters and younger brother are also there.



The house is in fact a room, in a terraced street of similar rooms. It's about twice the size of a double bed, and packed with well planned storage an Ikea designer would steal the ideas for. There is a dresser beside the bed with 3 neatly folded piles of clothes. The shelf above that has glasses. Above that are some cabin style cupboards with a curtain across hiding some more kitchen equipment, a winter quilt, and a television.

Opposite the bed is a small cubby hole in the wall that houses a brightly coloured Hindu shrine, with insect burning next to it. Another high shelf runs along the wall storing more little metal platters, bowls, and a stack of tupperware that the children use for school lunches. There is a second bed propped up against the wall, it's not out during the day because it would be impossible to walk on the limited floor space.

Cooking takes place just outside the front door. There is a small, low, stone fireplace. It can hold one pot over the top, where food is cooked,  hot water boiled and sweet spiced tea is brewed. The house doesn't have running water or a bathroom. The terrace has one shared squat toilet, one shared shower, and a shared tap.

We are made to feel really welcome. The children are sent out to get a bottle of lemonade and some Bombay mix despite the teachers protests that they should not spend what little money they have on us, but mum wins, and so we gratefully accept the sweet and spicy treats. We all sit cross legged on the double bed, with two of the children on a green plastic garden chair that has been borrowed from one of the neighbours.

We talk in English with the teacher and children translating into Hindi, but also breaking off and having more in depth discussion in Hindi. The children are doing well at school, especially in Maths, but they need extra tuition to make sure they get the best grades possible. Recently they have stopped going to see their tutor because they missed two days and now he had cut their name from the lost,  they're not going to find a new one as they have to go to a family wedding in their native village in Bihar for 10 days, so they'll do it when they get back. Despite questioning and pleading not to take the children out of school for so long mum is insistent that because of the travel time it's not worth them going if they don't spend time there, but she promises to make the children study while they are there.

Having sat and chatted for around half an hour we start to make a move and leave, only to be stalled again as mum tries to give the teacher another gift of earings. She places them in here ears and is insistent that because of all the good work she is doing for the children she must have them. After a long exchange in Hindi she takes out the earings,  saying to the eldest daughter that she should have the earings as a reward when she is doing really well at school. We are escorted back to the car by the whole family who want to make sure we get there safely.

I am struck by how caring and friendly the neighbourhood is. People come out of their houses to say hello to us as we make our way back.  The children are happily playing games of cricket, and riding bikes in the street. The women are beginning preparations for dinner, in a community that appears so different from my own some things seem so similar.





Thursday 8 October 2015

Happy Birthday Ghandi....and some casual wedding crashing....

I've hit India at the right time, it's holiday season. Last week we had the long weekend for Eid and this week there is a national holiday for Ghandi, 2nd October would have been his birthday. We started the day just as Ghandi would have wanted, with a long lie in then a trip to the Mall for a frapuccino and use of the free WiFi......

Feeling touristy we then took the metro into Delhi,  aiming for Raj Ghat. This is where Ghandi was shot, and then cremated, and there is a large memorial for him there. The metro bit of the journey was fine. We topped up our (Indian) Oyster cards successfully, and got off at the right stop, Green Park,  then had to find the 503 towards Moorgate... er hang on are we in London or Delhi, actually final bus stop was Mori Ghat, but I'might sure eyou see the similarities!!

We found the bus stop after about 15 minutes trying to get directions by chatting with local stall holders, and tuk-tuk drivers, who insisted we wouldn't make it if we didn't go with them, we found the bus stop. On ad ice from a lady at the bus stop we boarded a 504, air conditioned and got seats! We had a long conversation with the conducter via a helpful passenger translating who informed us that the hus did not go to Raj Ghat, and we should get off and change at Delhi Gate. As we passed India Gate it looked so jn it in that we hopped off the bus there instead, watching the sun set, and the hustle and bustle. We felt like super stars being asked for our photographs as we walked around the gate, and the park.










We circled around the Gate, and then continued our wander in darkness towards Connaught Place, one of the central business areas  Delhi. As we walked through the streets and passed grander and grander buildings we saw an impressive display of colourful lights, fairy lights, Greek style drapes, and flowers. We asked if we could have a look in as we passed the entrance, of course, come and look.

The preparations were for a wedding gift taking place that evening.  Waiters were busy getting tables ready, chefs were preparing every variety of food you can imagine, and the final decorations were being added.



As we walked back out of the exit we were greeted by an older gentleman coming into the courtyard. He stopped to speak with us,  and ask us what we thought of the venue and preparations. We complimented everything, ex plaiting we had never been to a wedding in India, and how spectacular everything looked. He showed an interest in why we were there and what we were doing in Delhi, and as we went to leave told us it was his daughter getting married and he would be honoured if we could join them at 8.30 for the wedding, erm absolutely, yes please, OMG!! Happy Birthday Ghandi, this is definitely how we were meant to celebrate!!

We spent the evening being looked after by the brides cousin,  and the father of the brides brother  explaining all the different customs to us, making sure we had food, making sure we had tried all of the different types off food, quite a night of cultural learning, and amazing hospitality and fantastic food!!







Saturday 3 October 2015

Eid Mubarak in Old Delhi

Not for the faint hearted, many animals were harmed in the making if this episode (but not by me....)

I moved to Gurgaon, had a day meeting people at school then a three day weekend for Eid celebrations, I could get used to a schedule like this. Anna and Paddy, who are living in the same building as me, and completing the same volunteer program as me, but working in a different school were invited to Old Delhi for a tour, by two muslim teachers,  as this area is home to one of the world's oldest Mosques. Trying to pin point exactly how old was a little more tricky. ....our tour guides Shakil (the music teacher) and Aamir (the maths teacher) debated whether it had been there since 200 years before, or maybe 400 years before, or maybe it was built 1600....in any case it's pretty old.

As we have come to expect they were warm and welcoming hosts, helping us to get the best price e for chai in the market, ordering for us at lunch so we had the best food, and explain many of the rituals taking place. Old Delhi meets all the stereotypes i had of India, cycle rick shaws, tiny busy roads, wild electricity pylons, hundreds of people...I won't bore you with too much detail, except the slaughter of the goats....we had a wander round the markets on our own whilst Shakil and Aamir were in the Mosque praying. We had been told that it was a tradition for each family to buy a goat as a sacrifice, but we didn't expect to see so much evidence of it. We saw families trying to stuff themselves and a live goat into a tuk-tuk  butchers covered in blood wielding large knives,  fresh goat carcasses under tables,  fresh goat skins piled at the side of the road, a goat market, children parading their goats down the street, some of them decorated with ribbons and flowers. As an outsider to the tradition it felt pretty grim, to everyone else a proud moment in the calendar.




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